How to Grow and Care for Gardenia

Gardenia are beautiful flowering plants that are very popular in many cultures. Gardenias are small trees or shrubs that grow from a thick root system and produce showy white flowers with a pink center. They can be grown in gardens, parks, and even indoors. Gardenias require a lot of sunlight and water to grow properly. When you start growing them indoors, they may need some extra sunlight and water to make sure they grow healthy. Once they grow well, they are easy to keep alive. Here is some overview of gardenia, according to the information about NC State University and N.C. A&T State University [1]:

 

Botanical Name	Gardenia jasminoides
Common Names	Gardenia Cape jessamine Cape Jasmine Cape Jasmine Gardenia
Plant Type	Shrub
Soil Type	Well-drained
Sun Exposure	Partial
Soil pH	Acidic
Bloom Time	Fall Summer Spring
Flower Color	White
Fruit Type	Berry
Harvest Time	Fall Summer
Toxicity	Toxic to pets

This plant has a long history of outdoor cultivation in warm areas. By grafting plants onto a Gardenia thunbergia rootstock, numerous types can be produced. Although the grafted plants have greater blooms and a tendency to develop more vigorously, they are even less susceptible to cold than natural species. Listed below are a few suggested cultivars:

• Gardenia jasminoides 'Aimee' has huge, 4- to 5-inch broad white flowers and can reach heights of 6 feet.
• The huge shrub G. jasminoides 'Fortuniana' is regarded as one of the best free-blooming types and produces 4-inch blooms all year long.
• G. jasminoides 'Buttons' is a dwarf variety that produces 2-inch blooms and grows to a height of 24 to 30 inches.
• With 3-inch flowers, G. jasminoides 'Crown Jewel' forms a compact mound that is 3 feet tall. This plant is known to be hardy as far north as zone 6.

From cuttings

If you have access to branches that are the appropriate age and take a four-inch stem cutting at any time of the year, you can begin a new G. jasminoides. Cut branches that are six to eight weeks old for cuttings. Cut the branch four inches from the end or the middle, making sure to cut it just below a node. Leave a few sets of leaves on the top part while removing the leaves from the lower half. When taking a mid-branch cutting, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder (or the end furthest from the branch's tip) before setting it into a shallow dish with an inch or two of pre-moistened seed starting medium. Within a month or two, the roots will start to appear, but you'll need to continuously water the soil, either from the bottom or with a mister. When the roots are at least an inch long, repot the rooted cutting. Before transplanting, allow the plant to reach a height of at least three inches and at least a few newly opened leaves.

From seed

Growing shrubs from seed can be a lot of fun to do with the kids and a cheap way to increase the number of shrubs for mass plantings, hedges, or containers. Each bright orange or red pod on a shrub that has stopped flowering for the season, typically in late October, yields numerous little seeds. As an alternative, you can buy seeds online. Over the winter, you can start seedlings indoors for spring transplanting. Add a few inches of seed-starting mix to a four-inch container with drainage holes. Five or six seeds should be sown, spaced a few inches apart and a quarter-inch deep. Water the soil deeply and let it totally drain. Set the container in a window or another area with bright light, but out of direct sunlight, and cover the top with plastic wrap or a plastic bag. Although 75°F is the optimum temperature for germination, it is okay to have it a few degrees warmer or cooler. Approximately half of the seeds, if you're lucky, will germinate in four to eight weeks. The plastic can now be removed. For the remainder of the winter, keep the soil moist and pots on the windowsill or close to (but not directly under) a grow light. Plant them in the springtime.

Transplanting

Start by watering and letting them drain so the soil is damp but not wet. This will prepare the soil for planting shrubs you have bought from an online retailer or nearby greenhouse, as well as cuttings you have rooted yourself. In order for the top of the root ball to be an inch or two above the soil surface, dig a hole in the growth area that is roughly three times the width of the pot. Gardenias prefer to stand tall. Once you reach the desired height, center the transplant and continue to add dirt underneath the roots. Backfill the area with soil, lightly compact it with your hands, and then thoroughly water it. If the soil begins to settle, top it off with extra dirt, making sure the plant's crown stays about an inch above the soil's surface. Make sure the graft union is well above the soil surface if you can see it on a grafted variety.

Soil

Gardenias should be planted in the fall, and the soil should be amended with organic compost before and after planting. Smaller kinds can be kept in containers; it is ideal to plant them in containers in growing zones colder than zone 8 so that plants can be brought inside for the winter.

Fertilize

The next spring, after the final date of frost in your region, fertilize your gardenia with a balanced azalea fertilizer. After six weeks, fertilize once more to encourage blooming. You might also use an organic fertilizer made for azaleas, rhododendrons, or holly.

Water

When it is dry in the summer, give gardenias a thorough watering once a week. To prevent water from getting on the leaves and blossoms, which can lead you to leaf spots, be sure to water the soil directly.

Light

Gardenia does not like direct sunlight, especially during summer. Just place this plant in the partial shade, such as in the window to get afternoon shade because it can grow best in this condition.

Temperature and Humidity

Gardenias require humidity to thrive, so if there is a drought, don't forget to water or spray your gardenias. Temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night are optimum during their growing and blooming season.

Early summer is often when gardenias bloom the longest, with sporadic blooms occurring later in the season. Remove leggy stems and faded blooms after blooming. To ensure that your gardenias bloom the next year, make sure to prune before late summer and early fall.

Gardenia is easily harmed by aphids, scales, mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies. How to deal with this problem? A range of horticultural oils, soaps, and organic treatments can all be used to manage bugs. Whichever option you select, be prepared in advance for frequent infestations. This plant is best suited for a gardener who has the time to commit to creating the ideal conditions because in many cases, damaged plants must be uprooted and destroyed.

Do gardenias do better in pots or in the ground?

Placing gardenia in a pot is the best for this plant to grow. This is because during the winter season, you can bring it in-house to keep it warm and protect it from frosts and winds.

Do gardenias benefit from coffee grounds?

Definitely, gardenias love coffee grounds. Adding more coffee grounds into your gardenia soil can help this plant grow its roots best.

Should I remove yellow leaves from gardenia?

If you worry that the yellow leaves in gardenia are a fungus or something similar, you can remove them to prevent any problems in the future. Sources: The New York Garden works under restricted procurement guidelines and relies on peer-reviewed studies and studies conducted by academic organizations. Tertiary references should be avoided. For more information on how we ensure our material is correct and up to date, please visit our editorial policy.

1. Gardenia jasminoides - NC State University and N.C. A&T State University